Italy gets a taste of winter.
Early snow and icy winds sweep the peninsula.
(ANSA) - Rome, November 23 - After enjoying a very mild autumn, Italy this week finds itself in the grips of a chilly preview of the winter to come .
Temperatures began dropping at the weekend and snow soon followed after the peninsula got caught between a cold front from the north and damp air rising from the south .
Central-southern regions were the hardest hit by the wintry weather on Wednesday with schools closed in cities like Potenza where up to 30cm of snow fell during the night .
Snow made a mess of traffic along the A3 Salerno-Reggio Calabria motorway where traffic is blocked in some places due to accidents and only vehicles with chains are allowed to travel where traffic si moving. Rail service in southern Italy also fell victim to the snow and wind after trees fell over tracks along the Potenza to Foggia rail line .
Traffic was regular in the central region of Umbria, where there was ample snow during the night even at lower altitudes .
Some 60cm of snow accumulated in the Montefeltro area of the Marche region and chains are obligatory in the mountains there .
Chains are also necessary in the mountains of the Emilia-Romagna region and snow fell Wednesday morning in Bologna .
Further north, snow was reported around Milan, while the northeast Friuli-Venezia Giulia region was hit by the bone-chilling Bora north wind which gusted up to 117kph in Trieste .
In Rome, buyers need time and luck
By Elizabeth Helman Minchilli International Herald Tribune
FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 25, 2005
ROME In most cities throughout the world, someone searching for a new home is looking for certain modern conveniences, comforts such as elevators, parking and an adequate number of bathrooms. But priorities change when the city in question is Rome.
Here, history is the thing. Some people do find homes in former palaces with noble pedigrees, but "only if you are lucky," said Letizia Bucci Casari Pasolini of Liveinit, a luxury real estate agency here. And living in the heart of the city's ancient center usually means that buyers must be willing to make concessions.
"The high-end home market here in Rome is defined by several factors," explained Matilde Cartoni, Pasolini's partner. "First of all, of course, is location. Not only does the property have to be in the historic center, but also preferably in a historic palace. Then everyone also wants panoramic views, but also terraces. And the 20th-century amenities like a parking space and an elevator are also requirements."
The problem is, apartments that match this checklist are few and far between. "If we get a really great apartment, in the center, with a terrace, we can sell it in one or two days," Cartoni said.
One of the determining factors in the lack of high-end properties is the size of the city itself: The historic center is an area only about twice the size of New York City's Central Park.
"While Italian buyers, especially Romans, will consider more residential neighborhoods such as Parioli or Prati, foreigners, and particularly Americans, want to be right in the thick of things," said Benedetta Barendson, of the Ruzzetti agency.
"For foreigners, buying in Rome means buying into the sense of history. That translates into a noble palace, hopefully with frescoes and architectural details. These places are very difficult to find."
Rome's luxury market also differs somewhat from other European capitals. "There is very little movement," Barendson explained. "Anglo-Saxons change their living arrangements as life changes. For instance, the kids will move off to university and so the parents will downsize, putting their original home on the market. Instead, the Italian mentality is quite different and they think of their homes as a nest egg. They would rather hang on to the property, and eventually leave it to their children. This means that some of the best properties never come up for sale."
Up until a few years ago, many considered the Roman high-end market undervalued compared with, say, that in London or Paris. But in the last three or four years the city has become recognized as a great place to live and so prices have risen to level seen in other European capitals.
The Jubilee year of 2000, a holy year of celebration for the Roman Catholic Church declared by Pope John Paul II, saw many of the grimy facades spruced up. And under the last mayor, Francesco Rutelli, many of the city's traffic-clogged squares have become pedestrian havens.
Major art shows now regularly make stops here, as do dance and theater troupes during the city's many cultural festivals. All this, plus a relatively temperate climate makes it a place where many want to have second homes.
The prices being asked for top-flight properties reflect their rarity.
When almost all of the elements come together - view, history and parking - the price is about 12,000 to 13,000 a square meter, or $1,300 to $1,400 a square foot.
But an address in a particularly sought-after historic building or square, or with a large terrace and a panoramic view, can add another 20 to 30 percent to the asking price.
And, "even if you come to Rome, with a lot of money to spend, it's not a given that you will be able to find something," said Paola Di Bari of the San Andrea agency, luxury division of the large Gabetti agency.
The apartments that De Bari deals with are often located on such important squares as Piazza Navona, Piazza di Spagna and Piazza Farnese. "When a property with amazing views comes up at these locations," she said, "they are almost like works of art. The demand is so high that it is almost an auction mentality when determining the price."
An apartment on Via del Governo Vecchio, near Piazza Navona, was recently sold by the Agnelli family of the Fiat auto empire. The apartment, which measured 400 square meters, or 4,300 square feet, had some frescoes and a car space, but no views. It sold for 8 million.
One result of the tight sales market is that it is fairly easy to find a fantastic rental, often at about 15,000 a month.
"Wealthy owners who own the great apartments are much more likely to rent for short term than to sell," De Bari said.
For example, the piano nobile, or main floor, of Palazzo Orsini, which is located within the ruins of Teatro Marcello, boasts frescoes, history and its own private orange orchard.
It belongs to the Origo family and has been rented to visiting Americans forseveral years.
The resurgence of the movie and TV industry, such as the filming in Rome of Martin Scorsese's "Gangs of New York" and, more recently, the 12-part series "Rome," a £58 million, or $99 million, joint venture of the BBC and HBO, also has convinced many owners to become landlords.
"Cinema has brought a lot of rentals onto the market," Barendson said.
"Since these people always want the top, and are willing to pay top dollar, some Roman families have decided to rent out their own homes, going to live in their country villa for a few months, during filming."
When Mel Gibson was shooting "The Passion of Christ," his 2004 release, he had no problem arranging to rent a 400-square-meter apartment, with terraces, in a historic palace not far from Piazza Farnese. But agents say he recently has given up looking for a place to buy because nothing has come on the market that meets his needs.
"We were very discouraged from even looking for something to buy when we first moved here," said Jeanette Montgomery Barron, a photographer who moved to Rome from America with her husband and two children in 2003. "Every one told us that the market was too tight, and it was better to rent."
They now rent a light-filled, 250-square-meter apartment on the top floor of Palazzo Lante, a stone's throw from the Pantheon, but they are considering buying once again. "I don't think the market has changed," Barron said. "But we would now rather live in a more 'Roman,' family neighborhood, like Monti."
The neighborhood known as Monti recently has risen to the top of everyone's list of hot places to live in Rome. The neighborhood, which is decidedly residential, is in the ancient Roman Suburra, the teeming area adjacent to the Forum. Today, the area is defined on one side by Via Nazionale and on the other by the Via dei Fori Imperiali, with the Colosseum at one end. It is a charming warren of small alleys and quaint piazzas.
Less touristy than the areas around Piazza Navona and Piazza Farnese, the neighborhood is still very centrally located.
Tommaso Amodeo, a manager of an information technology company, recently bought in the Monti neighborhood. His 200-square-meter apartment is on a top floor and has a small terrace, but he had looked for more than a year before he found it. "To find something in Rome these days you have to have a lot of patience," Amodeo said. "There is no lack of overpriced mediocre apartments, but finding something truly great is next to impossible, even if you have limitless funds."
Most agents view the luxury market as very stable at the moment. "For the last year the real estate rental market in Rome, in general, has seen a 20 percent drop" in value, Cartoni said. "In theory the economists tell us that this should be reflected, after about six months, in a drop in the sales market as well. In Rome we haven't seen this happen - but since New York and London haven't followed this formula, perhaps Rome sales will stay strong as well."
Di Bari agreed. "Even if there is going to be a general crisis in real estate - which everyone is predicting - the luxury won't be affected," she said. "The prices will keep going up."
‘Real’ look at ancient Rome
By R. GOWRI
Nov 24:
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WHAT was it like living in ancient Rome during the the days of Julius Caesar and Pompey Magnus? Most of us would have no inkling, apart perhaps from visions of marble columns and graceful buildings and Romans with chiselled features walking about in spotless togas, perhaps even of Elizabeth Taylor as the beautiful and ambitious Cleopatra having liaisons with important Roman leaders.
Hollywood’s romanticisations of Rome’s early days are basically just that — romantic notions. Now if you want to get a load of the real thing, HBO is serving up ancient Rome — much closer to depictions in written records, circa 52 BC. A cosmopolitan metropolis with many of the characteristics of a modern-day city like Mumbai, extreme wealth beside extreme poverty, dirty hovels beside sprawling villas, with every man — ruling class elite, soldier, slave and peasant — embroiled in the politics of the day, or having it touch every aspect of their lives.
But HBO’s Rome is no documentary, it’s an epic unfolding as a drama series, from the high-powered drama of the Senate and the growing enmity between Caesar and Pompey to the subtle dramas playing out in the living rooms and bedrooms of the landed and the plebeian, and not forgetting the more graphic drama in the killing fields and taverns.
We witness political manipulations, ambitious scheming by women, love and passion, gladiator battles and torture. It’s even a bit like Dynasty and Dallas in parts, in a different setting and with far more substance, right there with racy dialogue and plenty of seduction. (Asian viewers will be seeing “edited” screenings suitable to Asian sensibilities though!)
Rome portrays the historical events through the experiences of two soldiers of Caesar’s 13th legion, Lucius Vorenus and Titus Pullo. Each make unlikely companions but have an impact on the other’s life, eventually having to make life-changing decisions and deal with morality issues.
Vorenus (played by Kevin McKidd) also has to “re-connect” with his wife (Indira Varma) whom he has not seen for eight years. And Pullo, returning to the city, can’t stop his womanising and fight-picking adventures.
The historical events serve as a backdrop and a catalyst for the personal stories of everyday life at the time.
Caesar (Ciaran Hinds) has completed his conquest of Gaul, returning to Rome with battle-hardened soldiers, plunder, and a populist agenda for radical social change. The aristocracy is fearful and threatens to prosecute him for war crimes if he enters Rome. Pompey (Kenneth Cranham) is co-consul of Rome and, once, mentor of Caesar and beloved of the aristocrats. There’s also the scheming Atia of the Juli, niece of Caesar (marvellously portrayed by Polly Walker); the impulsive Mark Anthony (James Purefoy); Servilia of the Junii (Lindsay Duncan), the mother of Brutus; and Gaius Octavian (Max Pirkis), the quietly observant great nephew of Caesar and son of Atia.
And so begins the turmoils of the Republic and Rome.
Apart from the impressive picturisation of Rome of old, another asset of the series is its ability to grow on you. The first episode (journalists had a preview of episodes 1, 2 and 3 at a resort in Chiang Mai, Thailand, courtesy of HBO Asia) was admittedly a bit of a slow-starter and confusing to those whose Roman history is scratchy, but by the third episode the characters had already developed beyond expectation, revealing that even the mildest had inner demons to hide and battle. And, by then, you were already anxious to see the fourth.
'I'm Surprising My Wife With a Romantic Trip to Italy'
After serving overseas in the air force, Richard Farrow is taking his wife, Andrea, on a whirlwind vacation."Two years ago, my husband got activated with the military," Andrea Farrow, of Murrieta, Calif., wrote to us last summer. "While he has been all over the world, he has actually 'seen' very little of it other than military bases." Andrea was planning on dropping off her three sons with Grandma and taking a two-week trip to Europe in late March with her husband, Richard, a member of the Air Force Reserves, soon after he was released from duty. She wasn't sure where to go, listing Spain, Italy, Portugal, Greece, Switzerland, Germany, Austria, Ireland, and Scotland among the places that interested them. When pressed for specifics, Andrea named Pompeii and Venice, and it became clear that we should help them focus on Italy.
A short while after agreeing to coach the Farrows, we got an e-mail from Richard: "My wife doesn't think that we're going, because of some money issues. If she e-mails you about it, just ignore her. I guess this vacation is now going to be a surprise." Andrea never told us they were canceling the trip outright, but after a few weeks we stopped hearing from her. Richard stayed in touch with us between missions in Afghanistan and Iraq, and we managed to keep the planning a secret. At one point, worried that Andrea was "getting a little snoopy," Richard even switched e-mail addresses to throw her off. "Andrea thinks we can't afford this," Richard wrote, "but we'll manage. I will sell my car if I have to."
The small towns and hills of the Chianti region (Italian Government Tourist Board)
The Farrows wanted to travel primarily by train, and we told them to research routes and schedules at trenitalia.com. After plotting out a rough itinerary according to their requests--a mix of Italy's major attractions with some off-the-beaten-path fun--we suggested that they spend $564 on a second-class, two-person Italy Rail 'n Drive pass, which comes with four days of train travel and a two-day compact-car rental.
"I'm a history teacher," Andrea had said, "so castles, ruins, and historical sites are a must." The Farrows' first glimpse of Italy is in Rome, where their tight schedule allows for three days. Although they want to see the city's big-name attractions, we told them not to get bogged down with a checklist of sights. There are a number of ways to enjoy Rome, such as window-shopping the fashion boutiques of Via dei Condotti, tasting the creamy gelato at Giolitti, and wasting an afternoon at a café on Piazza Navona (so that Andrea can engage in an activity that she had requested--"sitting outside and watching people as they move about their daily lives.")
The Farrows are using the first day of their rail pass to head two hours south to Naples, where they'll switch to a private rail line not covered by their pass (Circumvesuviana, $3) for a 40-minute ride to Pompeii. We pointed out to the Farrows that to be most efficient, before they leave Napoli Centrale station for Pompeii they should place their luggage in a storage room and reserve a sleeping berth, or couchette, on an overnight train to Venice that evening (roughly a $20 supplement to their rail pass).
Wandering around the dusty streets, crumbling temples, vacant houses, intact bakeries, and amphitheater of Pompeii--all frozen in time (a.d. 79, to be precise) by the hot ash of a volcanic eruption of Mount Vesuvius--should eat up five or six hours. Snack trucks lining the road to Pompeii provide a simple lunch, and gift shops sell excellent illustrated guides to help navigate the ruins. If they limit themselves to three hours in Pompeii, they may be able to squeeze in Herculaneum, the less crowded and in many ways more evocative victim of Vesuvius. They just need to hop out at the Ercolano stop on the return to Naples.
The overnight train arrives in Venice at 5:31 a.m., a great opportunity to watch the sun rise over the city of canals. We instructed the Farrows to drop their bags at their hotel--the family-run Hotel Bernardi Semenzato--and head directly to the famed Piazza San Marco, which will be wonderfully empty at that time of day. The Secret Itineraries tour of the Doge's Palace, adjacent to St. Mark's, is up next, and guides give an overview of the 1,000-year history of the Venetian Republic while bringing visitors through cramped wooden chambers hidden behind tapestries in the lavish palace.
As part of the special tour, Richard and Andrea will even get to clamber up to "the leads," the attic prison cells from which Casanova once escaped.
"We'd like to go to some out-of-the-way places that most tourists don't see," Andrea had insisted, prompting us to recommend that on their second day in town they explore Venice's outlying islands by ferry, or vaporetto. The glass factories at Murano, a mini-Venice with canals and cathedrals but no crowds, are fascinating. The fishing village of Burano is known for its brightly colored houses, and then there's also the largely abandoned island of Torcello. It was a former haunt of Ernest Hemingway and is home to little more than some weedy canals, a couple of restaurants, and a 1,000-year-old church glittering with mosaics.
Limiting Venice to two days may seem like sacrilege, but the Farrows demanded a fast pace. Andrea had said she wanted to see as many things as possible, concerned that they'd never take a similar trip again. We told them to hop a morning train that by early afternoon would land them in Pisa for mandatory photo ops of the Leaning Tower. A couple of hours is plenty. They'll continue on to the seaside village of Riomaggiore, where brothers Roberto and Luciano Fazioli rent fantastic apartments for $65 to $130 double. Riomaggiore is the southernmost of five villages along the cliffs of the Riviera known as the Cinque Terre. The villages are connected by a series of ancient goat paths that are scenic and great for hiking.
Next is Florence and two days of sightseeing, followed by a day of cycling through the small towns and hills of the Chianti region with an outfit called I Bike Italy. The Farrows pick up their car in Florence for a final two days, heading south to San Gimignano, a kind of medieval Manhattan with 14 stone towers atop a hill. After lunch at La Mangiatoia--with a bottle of the local white wine, Vernaccia--they drive on to Siena, one of the best-preserved medieval cities in the world. The Campo, Siena's sloping, scallop-shaped central square, is a stone's throw from the place we recommended the Farrows stay, the Piccolo Hotel Etruria.
Before returning to Rome, the Farrows have one last stop. Along the back road from Scansano to Manciano, at a sharp bend just beyond a bridge, they'll see cars parked on the shoulder. Across the field is Saturnia's Cascata del Gorello, hot mineral waters that spill down the hillside in a series of relaxing pools.
The total cost of the couple's trip should be about $4,500--well within the budget Richard gave us. "My wife has done an outstanding job raising our three sons and taking care of our house while I've been away," he said. "She deserves this." Now they know they can afford it. We just wish we could see the look on Andrea's face when she finds out.
Note: This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
Detention at Rome airport upsets Winnie Madikizela-Mandela
11 November 2005 JOHANNESBURG - Winnie Madikizela-Mandela, the controversial former wife of Nelson Mandela has demanded an apology from Italian authorities following her detention at an airport in Rome on Thursday, South African media reported on Friday.
A spokesman for Madikizela-Mandela told a radio station, the 71-year-old political activist was held for 45 minutes at Fumicione airport without explanation. She was later released “without an apology” despite the fact that her travel documents were in order, Udo Froese told the Johannesburg-based 702 radio station.
Madikizela was en route to Sardinia to attend an international conference on culture and mediation as an invited guest speaker, he said. The outspoken anti-apartheid veteran who was convicted of fraud and theft recently, was travelling with a delegation that included her daughter Zinzi.
Edmund Tijerina: Pizza master eyeing world title
San Antonio Express-News Who makes the best pizza in the country?
Of course, a New Yorker would say it's Ray's (and then argue about which Ray's they mean) and Chicagoans would debate among Gino's East, Giordano's or Lou Malnatti's.
But San Antonio's own Gus Nassar, owner of Rome's Pizza on De Zavala Road, is now a contender for that title. After all, he's a member of the 2006 U.S. Pizza Team that will travel to Italy to take on the best in the world.
In a competition in New York earlier this month, he took second place in the nation in the Best Pizza category with his Millennium 3 pizza.
His recipe includes pesto and mozzarella, with roasted rosemary potatoes, sautéed spinach and marinated grilled chicken breast. It's then topped with Gorgonzola cheese. He introduced it at the beginning of the millennium.
The world pizza competition takes place in April.
A little preparation takes the hassle out of your trips
By Pamela Young
Special to the Star-Bulletin
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I found this article in Google News, and although Pamela doesn't mention Rome in her script, I really think there's a ton of good advice here, especially if you're new to foreign city travel.
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You can find us in any airline VIP lounge. We are the ones in the rumpled blazers, hunched over peanuts and orange juice. Some of us stare blankly at the TV monitor, which is blaring a music video in a foreign language. We are frequent flyers and we are very, very tired.
In 22 years of "Mixed Plate" assignments around the world, I've learned the hard way that traveling, for work or play, is an art. And like any skill, it takes practice, rehearsal and performance.
Yet many people stumble into a vacation ill-prepared to face the physical and mental challenges of long-distance trekking. They pack their vitamins and Instamatics, but leave behind common sense and courtesy. For a "Mixed Plate" series on KITV 4 News at 5, we worked with health practitioners, the U.S. State Department, the Consular Corps and Hawaiian Airlines to come up with a simple checklist to smooth the way from here to there.
Here are a few timely tips for summer sojourners:
10. Do the research. Go online or to the library to bone up on your destination and answer questions such as: Is it safe? How's the weather? When is festival season?Americans tend to book vacations for the summer, not knowing that August is also holiday time for Europe. Many businesses and attractions shut their doors for those four weeks. February is great in Rio de Janeiro, but close to Carnival time, the hotel rates will be exorbitant. Doing the research helps travelers avoid costly mistakes, but also enhances one's appreciation for a destination and a different culture.
9. Do the paperwork. Is your passport valid? Some countries will not allow entry if your passport is six months from expiration. Do you need a visa or documentation of vaccination? Do you have receipts for your camera gear to prove it was purchased in this country? Always carry medical documents verifying blood type, allergies and conditions that might require emergency care.
8. Pack judiciously. Choose your travel wardrobe for versatility and endurance: non-wrinkle sets of shirts, blouses, skirts and pants that can be combined for different looks. Those new red stilettos are cool, but you'll find yourself cursing after three hours of strolling the Champs Elysees. Comfortable shoes are a must, even if they are dorky.I like to pack comfy clothes I don't expect to wear past the trip. Wear 'em, dump 'em. Who wants to pay a hotel laundry bill ($6 for a pair of jeans!) or spend the evening washing clothes in the bathtub? Disposable travel wear also ensures lots of suitcase space for the new clothes you intend to buy!
7. Stay healthy. Drink lots of water on the flight. Avoid caffeine and alcohol. On long flights, make sure you walk around the plane, stretch your legs, do yoga -- anything to bring circulation into your arms and legs. Be generous with hand lotion. Nothing sucks the moisture out of your skin faster than aircraft air conditioning. Bring all your prescription drugs and cold medications. In some countries, over-the-counter drugs like antihistamines are not available without a doctor's prescription. If you buy medications abroad, be sure the pharmacist fully translates the contents. One of the joys of foreign travel is being able to sample different cuisines. Part of your research (No. 10) should have included the safety of water and food. Avoid food offered at roadside stalls. Bring an immerser to boil water in your hotel room (I do this even in New York!). Of course, in the quest for righteous grindz I've broken a few of the most obvious rules. And on "Mixed Plate" assignments, there is always some joker daring me to eat eel's head or ox testicles. Yet my only serious illness came after drinking milk in Belgium, one of the cleanest countries in the world.The pasteurization process there wreaked duodenal havoc. Obviously, I did not do the research.
6. Time is of the essence. Unless you're going to a neighbor island, Hawaii travelers can expect a minimum four-hour haul across the pond. That means at least 2,500 miles and a time zone or two. Convincing your body to time leap is no easy task. Jet lag can zap your energy and muddle your mind. The prep starts on the plane. Adjust your watches to destination time. Try to sleep if the flight is an overnighter. Some passengers find the herbal supplement Melatonin helpful for traveling sleep, but check with your doctor before taking any medication. At your destination, adjust to local sleep hours. Even if you're tired, try to stay up until dark.
5. Ni shuo putonghua? Learn the language. There may not be enough time for you to conjugate verbs, but the very basics are always appreciated. I borrow tapes and CDs to learn as much as I can before departure. At the very least, know how to say "thank you," "please" and "excuse me." They are the three most valuable expressions for a stranger in a strange land.
4. Combien d'argent? Learn the money. The euro has made life easier for vacationers on the Continent, but we still have to deal with yen, yuan, baht, chaht, rupees, pesos and dinar. Find out the exchange rate and make a chart, breaking down the amounts and their equivalents in American dollars. For example, if I see a pair of shoes in Hong Kong priced at $100HK, I divide by eight (the rate is usually around 7.6), and I know I'll be paying about $13US. Of course, you can always take a calculator, but that pretty much pegs you as a turista ... a disadvantage when haggling.
3. Learn the customs. Know when to bow, when to shake hands, when not to touch at all. The Chinese have embarked on a public education program to introduce Beijing residents to Western-style manners. They seek not to offend visitors during the 2008 Olympics. As vacationers, we have the same responsibility not to offend our hosts. For example, ask before taking that snapshot of smiling children in Kenya. In some cultures, a camera is a thing of evil. Some governments charge fees for the privilege of photographing their palaces and monuments. Every culture has a standard for acceptable public behavior. Never forget you are playing in somebody else's back yard.
2. Go with the flow. The trains in Italy are notoriously late, though few passengers complain. It simply is a given. Our train from Rome to Venice was not only 45 minutes late, it turned out to be a local, not an express.That meant eight hours on the tracks, arriving well past midnight. Que sera, sera. The ticket-taker suggested we order a bottle of wine and enjoy the view. And that's exactly what we did. Sometimes all you can do is surrender.
1. Show your aloha. A smile goes a long way, especially when you can't find the words in your foreign language dictionary. Half my suitcase is usually occupied with boxes of chocolate macadamia nuts. If the recipient is Asian, I wrap the box in colorful paper and ribbon. Red is good luck, gold is festive, but avoid white, which is used only for funerals. When I don't know the proper gratuity, when I enter someone's home, when I want to say mahalo, a gift from Hawaii is golden.
When in Rome . . .: How to do it like a local
By Ken Dilanian
Special to the Chicago Tribune
Published May 22, 2005
ROME -- Seduced by those endless television images of sun-dappled St. Peter's Basilica during the papal transition? Thinking of booking a trip to the Eternal City?
You're not alone. Travel agents say Americans are heading to Rome in droves this spring and summer, thanks in part to the city's visibility during the pope coverage.
It's a great idea. I've lived here for almost three years, and I still discover something new to like about the place almost every day. For a visitor, Rome is a catalog of wonders that almost always makes for an unforgettable experience.
But Italy's capital, like Italy itself, is not all hearts and flowers. As any expatriate resident will tell you, there is a lot to dislike about living here. Luckily most of it—like the mind-bending bureaucracy or the paltry choice of non-Italian restaurants—is irrelevant to the tourist.
Still, there are a few things worth knowing to avoid common pitfalls and make your trip go more smoothly. Here's an insider's guide to a pleasant Roman vacation.
Where to stay: The first thing you'll notice when you start hunting for Rome hotels is that the old reliable chains are either exorbitantly expensive or nowhere near the historic center. And amenities like a fitness center don't exist in a decent location for less than $300 a night. Welcome to Rome's overpriced lodging market, made worse for Americans by the sagging dollar. Demand seems to be pushing prices ever higher this season, and many of the gems are already booked solid.
Unless you are prepared to spend a bundle, what you can hope for is a quaint place in a good location, like the basic, three-star Hotel Siena near the incomparable Trevi Fountain, where a double in late May is going for about $240 a night. If you have to go further downmarket, consider that you aren't coming here to hang around your hotel, anyway.
If you can, stay in the neighborhood known as Old Rome, where you can walk to almost everything you'll want to see. The ideal locations are near Campo di Fiori, the Spanish Steps, the Pantheon or the Trevi. Trastevere is also wonderful, if not quite in the very center. If I had to choose between a great hotel and a great location in Rome, I'd pick location. The dingy Metro often doesn't go where you need it to, taxis are expensive, and the overcrowded buses aren't easy to navigate.
There are a lot of budget hotels around the Termini central train station. Stay there if you must, but be warned that it gets a little seedy at night, and it's a hike from many of the sights. Likewise, staying near the Vatican or the Colosseum can be fine, but it means that you are not really within an easy walk of most of the tourist trail. Many travelers are willing to brave the Termini neighborhood, though, to stay at the new Radisson SAS. It's Rome's version of hip minimalism, and it has an outdoor pool.
If you are unsure about a hotel, see what other guests had to say about it on www.tripadvisor.com, which also links to Web deals. Use the link to the right of this Blog. For bargains also try the site www.venere.com. As an alternative, consider renting an apartment for a week.
When you land: Under no circumstances should you take a taxi into the city from Fiumicino Airport. There is a reason taxi drivers wait in line for hours for a single airport trip. Even an honest fare can easily run 50 euros, and honest airport fares for non-Italian-speakers are about as common in this city as a decent hamburger. A savvy investment banker I know was fleeced for 100 euros—$135.
You have at least two good alternatives. One, take the Leonardo Express, a comfortable 10-euro train that whisks you to Rome's central train station, Termini, in 35 minutes. You can even buy tickets with a credit card in the small machine outside the ticket office (don't forget to validate the ticket by inserting it into the yellow box near the platform). From Termini, you can take a much cheaper taxi to your hotel. The truly determined can try the Metro by following the signs.
Option two is a car service, which will send a driver to meet you in the airport arrivals hall for less than the cost of a taxi. Lately I have been using www.romeshuttlelimousine.com, which charges 35 euros ($47). It's nice to see somebody waving a placard with your name on it.
What to see and do: You already know the big stuff. This is a city of awe-inspiring ruins, amazing churches and compelling monuments—and it's a place where just walking the cobblestones streets is unlike anywhere else in the world. Save a full day for St. Peter's and the Vatican museum, of course. Your guided tour—highly recommended—will end in the Sistine Chapel, where the cardinals recently elected Pope Benedict XVI.
The three other "patriarchal basilicas"—St. John Lateran, St. Mary Major and St. Paul's Outside the Walls—are each stunning, and worth a visit. But my favorite church is St. Mary Over Minerva, near the Pantheon, with its gothic interior and striking blue ceiling.
Other places to take a tour include the Colosseum—the guide will find you in line—and the Roman Forum, where a good guide can bring that old marble to life with stories of treachery and glory.
My other favorite experiences include a stroll in one of the parks, either Villa Borghese to the north of the center or Villa Doria Pamphili near Trastevere; climbing the stairs to the Campidoglio, the Michelangelo-designed City Hall complex, where you are rewarded with views of the Roman Forum; and people-watching in and around Via Condotti, home to Prada, Armani et al. Which brings me to…
Where to shop—or not
With the exchange rate where it is, there are no bargains here. That Versace blouse is probably cheaper back home, even if you dutifully pursue your refund of the 20 percent sales tax on purchases over 155 euros. What's more, Rome is full of tiny stores with limited selection, inconsistent quality and often-indifferent service. Once you get their attention, many shopkeepers don't want you fingering their merchandise—they insist on bringing you your size, then hovering. My wife, for one, can't stand shopping here for that reason.
Still not dissuaded? Okay, it's true that the Italians are good with leather, ceramics and housewares. The biggest shopping streets are Via del Corso, which runs through the heart of central Rome, and Cola di Rienzo, across the Tiber closer to the Vatican. Funkier boutiques can be found around Camp di Fiori and Trastevere.
Rome now has a bona fide outlet mall called Castel Romano, but getting there by public transportation, which I did once, involves taking the Metro, then a bus; then being left by that bus on the side of a highway; then walking a mile. If you must, take the B line to the Laurentina stop, then a Cotral bus toward Pomezia-Latina to the Castel Romano stop.
Where to eat: Dining is an integral part of an Italy vacation, and you should peruse the Web for recommendations. It's easy to eat badly here, though, even at guidebook-sanctioned places. It is also possible to find yourself staring at the same menu every night. Romans are not known for culinary adventurousness, and this is a city full of tourist traps.
That said, just because the place is full of tourists and the menus are in English doesn't mean it will be mediocre. The best (and most expensive meal) I've eaten in Rome was at El Toula (www.toula.it), on Via della Lupa, which is probably in every guidebook, and which even served butter with the bread, American style. Order the veal.
My wife and I often take visitors to Girarrosto Fiorentino (www.girarrostofiorentino.it), at Via Sicilia 29 near the U.S. Embassy, because they serve a sumptuous Tuscan appetizer plate of cold cuts, buffalo mozzarella and grilled vegetables, and, if you have any appetite left, great steaks. I also recently ate a wonderful meal at Taverna Trilussa on Via del Politeama in Trastevere. L'Archetto, at Via dell'Archetto 26, has dozens of varieties of spaghetti, done up with all manner of cheeses, meats and spices.
For my money the best espresso is served at Caffe Tazza D'Oro (www.tazzadoro.it), near the Pantheon, and the best gelato, if you prefer the creamier kind, is at San Crispino (www.ilgelatodisancrispino.com), tucked away near the Trevi Fountain.
If you want pizza that clings to its historic roots, try the Verace Napoletana option at Pizza in Blue, overlooking Piazza Barberini. This wood-oven-baked variety uses just the right San Marzano tomatoes and buffalo mozzarella. The owner runs a famous Naples restaurant that was a pizza pioneer.
Since a 10 or 15 percent service charge is included in the bill, you need to tip only a euro or two, except at high-end places, where you can leave 5 percent extra.
Other trips: Rome is generally a safe city, but pickpocketing and purse snatching are pandemic, so guard your valuables, especially on a crowded bus or train.
People of color may find a less welcoming atmosphere in Italy than in northern Europe, though it often seems born more of ignorance than hate. Italians, especially in the south, tend to stare at people who are different from them. My wife, who is Korean-American, has had some unpleasant experiences here, and I once saw some young idiots scream mockingly at a group of Asian tourists in the street. But some people report no problems at all. For more information, check out the minority travelers' forum at www.ricksteves.com.
On a lighter note, waiting in line is seen as a sort of quaint notion in Italy: a nice idea but optional. So don't be afraid to assert yourself when somebody steps in front of you at a taxi stand or a bar. A sharp "mi scuse" usually does the trick. Bars, by the way, are where you go to get an espresso and a snack, and you usually need to pay first, then take the receipt to the counter.
Lastly, horde your change. Italian merchants never had enough in the lira days, and they don't have enough now. Don't even think of asking a small shop to break that 50-euro note you just got from the ATM.
Now that you know to be ready for them, none of these minor hiccups should detract from the majesty of one of the world's great centers of art, culture and beauty.
